I wasn't expecting it to be easy! I've heard nightmare stories of other travellers being stranded in Baku for a week or more waiting for a ferry to Aktau. I was expecting pointless waiting and sucking up to 'important' officials to get a ticket. It didn't disappoint!
I went to the old port near the center of Baku on the day I arrived to be told that the tickets for the Aktau ferry are sold at the new port 5 miles away even though the boat leaves from the old port. Makes sense! The ticket office was closed so I had to go back the next day. I did at 9 and was told yo come back at 12, I did and was told to come back at 3! In the meantime I managed to male friends with the guy who decides who's first in line for the next tickets. He assured me I'd get the next. I was also offered a bed for the night from a lovely guy called Arif.
At 3 I went back and the office, which opened at 4 and I finally got ny ticket. I was told the ferry was about to leave so I packed up my stuff and cycled as fast as I could back to the old port. They told me the ferry wasn't leaving until tomorrow and I should come back at 9 the next day!
I went back to Arif's and enjoyed a great evening with him and his family and managed to fix my bike using his large array of tools!
The next day I went back to the port and got on the ferry at about 12. It left at about 7 at night.
On board I had a great time though. The ferry was full if Kazakhs importing German cars from the Caucuses. The import laws are changing so there are loads of people buying old bmw's and mercs while its still cheap.
Needless to say there was a lot of alcohol on board the boat. I managed to avoid a lot of the drinking but not all! Luckily mý cabin mates were a guy who slept for almost the entire crossing and an Azeri called Rachmed who didn't drink much.
I was taught a game of cards which I never had any idea how to play but I bizzarely won both games I took part in! At night I went up to the deck and saw the stars above the sea. Amazing. There are also a lot of oil rigs, so many!
The next day we arrived at Aktau in the morning but stayed outside the port all day. I used the time to look at maps and read. Nobody on board thought I had a chance of making it across the desert on a bike!
At about 5 the captain announced we'd be spending another night on the boat. More drinking, which I completely avoided this time and inevitably some tensions. Rachmed was insulted by a drunk Kazakh guy, something about Azerbaijan and the Kazakh wanted to start a fight in the restaurant. He was very drunk. I escaped to the deck and read until it calmed down.
The next day we were finally let off the boat in the afternoon. I was on the boat for over 2 days instead of the 18 hours it was supposed to take. Clearing customs and persuading officials to prune back on the boat to get my bike took more time and I finaly got to a hotel that evening!
The time in Aktau was spent preparing for the desert. I had to register with the OVIR, a stupid ex soviet office which records where foreigners are in the country. I'd love to know what they do with the files of travellers passport details!
I was ready for the desert after 2 nights in Aktau and looking forward to getting moving again. Not really sure what to expect but lets see what happens!
I went to the old port near the center of Baku on the day I arrived to be told that the tickets for the Aktau ferry are sold at the new port 5 miles away even though the boat leaves from the old port. Makes sense! The ticket office was closed so I had to go back the next day. I did at 9 and was told yo come back at 12, I did and was told to come back at 3! In the meantime I managed to male friends with the guy who decides who's first in line for the next tickets. He assured me I'd get the next. I was also offered a bed for the night from a lovely guy called Arif.
At 3 I went back and the office, which opened at 4 and I finally got ny ticket. I was told the ferry was about to leave so I packed up my stuff and cycled as fast as I could back to the old port. They told me the ferry wasn't leaving until tomorrow and I should come back at 9 the next day!
I went back to Arif's and enjoyed a great evening with him and his family and managed to fix my bike using his large array of tools!
The next day I went back to the port and got on the ferry at about 12. It left at about 7 at night.
On board I had a great time though. The ferry was full if Kazakhs importing German cars from the Caucuses. The import laws are changing so there are loads of people buying old bmw's and mercs while its still cheap.
Needless to say there was a lot of alcohol on board the boat. I managed to avoid a lot of the drinking but not all! Luckily mý cabin mates were a guy who slept for almost the entire crossing and an Azeri called Rachmed who didn't drink much.
I was taught a game of cards which I never had any idea how to play but I bizzarely won both games I took part in! At night I went up to the deck and saw the stars above the sea. Amazing. There are also a lot of oil rigs, so many!
At about 5 the captain announced we'd be spending another night on the boat. More drinking, which I completely avoided this time and inevitably some tensions. Rachmed was insulted by a drunk Kazakh guy, something about Azerbaijan and the Kazakh wanted to start a fight in the restaurant. He was very drunk. I escaped to the deck and read until it calmed down.
The next day we were finally let off the boat in the afternoon. I was on the boat for over 2 days instead of the 18 hours it was supposed to take. Clearing customs and persuading officials to prune back on the boat to get my bike took more time and I finaly got to a hotel that evening!
The time in Aktau was spent preparing for the desert. I had to register with the OVIR, a stupid ex soviet office which records where foreigners are in the country. I'd love to know what they do with the files of travellers passport details!
I was ready for the desert after 2 nights in Aktau and looking forward to getting moving again. Not really sure what to expect but lets see what happens!
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