Mississippi

We arrived in Mississippi late in the day and it was almost dark. I'd stupidly forgotten to charge my bike light up in New Orleans so I followed Harry's rear light along the side of the road, dodging potholes and bumps by trying to follow his line exactly. We went to a Wal Mart and ate a roast chicken on a bench in the entrance and had a chat with a complete nutcase who had obviously taken a few too many chemicals in his lifetime! We camped around the back of Wal Mart.

The next morning Harry had a really bad migrane and couldn't cycle. We managed to pack up and cycle to a McDonalds at around 1 and stayed there til about 3. While we were there, I listened to the radio. Man U got knocked out of the champions league, unbelievable! If we had more time, we'd have taken the day off and found a hotel room where Harry could recover. Unfortunately time wasn't on our side, so we got going at 3 and managed almost 40 miles that evening which was a great recovery. There were loads of floating casinos in Biloxi. If they're on the water (offshore), they get past the Mississippi gambling laws and it was like being back in Vegas. We cycled straight past them and over a long bridge over an estuary to Ocean Springs.

We found a wood to camp in and set up the tents. Unfortunately, somebody had seen our torches and called the police - it was an abandoned bit of land so very strange that the police responded to a call about two torches in a wood! Anyway, they came and were really suspicious. They warned us to keep our hands where they could see them and made us tell them where our ID's were in the bags because they didn't trust us to get them out ourselves. We were being treated like suspects to a crime, it was way over the top. Anyway, after they'd run a criminal record check on our driving licenses, they started treating us like humans and let us stay in the wood, assuring us that if any crimes happened in the local area, we'd be prime suspects - nice!

We left early in the morning and had breakfast in a Burger King, pretty good and cheap syrup pancakes. The manager looked up the ferry timetable that we needed to take later on that day. Not much happened for the rest of the morning. We saw a bike which had been converted to be driven by a petrol engine! It went about 30 mph and did 150 mpg. I want one!!

As we were approaching the Alabama border, we found a huge scrapyard - a number plate goldmine! Harry asked the owner if we could have a couple and was told he wasn't allowed to give us them. We took that as an invitation to help ourselves so we left with a Mississippi and Alabama plate each and feeling a bit like thieves!!

Only spent a couple of days in Mississippi, the coast was very nice but a bit touristy. A short spell in Alabama next then, the last state, Florida.

Louisiana

Finally out of Texas, the first thing to notice about Louisiana was the mosquitoes. Every time we stopped, a swarm appeared around us! We crossed into Louisiana on the interstate and then followed 'Old road 90' through the swamps. It was amazing scenery, with a lot of wildlife, mainly large birds nesting in the swamps. Back on the interstate, we found a state information office and acquired a couple of maps. We cycled late that evening, trying to make a big day, despite the headwind. We illegally crossed a motorway bridge, which had a closed lane for roadworks and whizzed down the other side into Lake Charles. We experienced our first cajun cooking at a gumbo restaurant. Gumbo is a delicious spicy stew/soup served with rice. That night, we asked a couple of dog walkers for a place to stay and they gave us their workshop in the garden.

It took a while to get going the next morning and we were both getting tired, trying to get big miles in every day was taking it out of us. Just a couple of days to New Orleans though, then after that it should be more relaxed. That day we cycled along a small country road in Cajun country. It was beautiful, very flat land but historic towns, much more interesting than Texan countryside. We stopped at a restaurant for lunch and were given alligator by the friendly owner. It was delicious and tasted a bit like chicken with the texture of fish.

We reached Franklin that evening and camped in an RV park. A drunk living there, David 'helped' Harry put up his tent. He was a nice guy though and very lonely so we talked to him for a while as we cooked.

More headwind the next morning so we were destined for another struggle! Most of the day was spent on the US90 dual carriageway. It was mainly through swamp again. We saw a group of alligators sunning themselves on a rock and then swimming through a swamp. There were turtles in there too. Not much more to report that day other than a good place to camp around the back of a Shell garage, we could use their facilities. Bloody shattered!!

The next morning we set off for New Orleans on the 90. The heavens opened and we got absolutely soaked within a couple of minutes then dried off by the powerful sun over the next hour. We arrived at the bridge that took us into the city and were told we couldn't ride over it by a policeman. It was monitored both ends so there was really no way around it. The other option was to take a ferry across the river further east and we reasoned that getting a lift over a bridge was no different from taking a ferry and it was also free so it didn't count as cheating as there was no other option! We cycled to the traffic lights and asked a guy who looked like a rapper if we could throw the bikes in the back of the truck and get a lift over. We put the bikes in and were in the back of the truck when the lights changed. He revved the engine and shot off with us standing in the back of the truck! Nutter. We lay down, trying to hide from the police and he drove very fast over the bridge with us in the back. He stopped at the lights on the other side of the bridge and we jumped out, thanking him! It was very funny.

We cycled along the storm levies that protect New Orleans from floods (it wasn't these ones that failed in 2005). The huge pumping stations along them show the engineering effort it takes to keep the city from flooding, although unsuccessful during Hurricane Katrina. We continued to the French Quarter and had a drink at a Parisian style cafe on the side of the street. It's a beautiful place, with load of atmosphere.

As we cycled through the city to Louis' house, a guy we me through www.warmshowers.com, I didn't notice any affects of the hurricane, except the appalling road surfaces. Some neighborhoods didn't look the safest though. We met Louis, had a beer and some excellent home made pizzas, then drove round in his vintage BMW. We drove through the neighborhoods that haven't been redeveloped since the hurricane. There are whole blocks with ruined and abandoned houses and some plots of land with no remnants of a house at all, they were simply washed away. Some neighborhoods have been forgotten about, some have people living there still and some are being redeveloped with fantastic new eco-homes, which are really interesting architecturally.

We went to a bar with a live blues band, which is what New Orleans is famous for. They were fantastic and we enjoyed a few local beers before heading back to Louis'.

As part of his job, Louis designates cycle lanes in New Orleans. We followed one of them out of the city, over a load of bridges through the swamps and past lots of buildings on stilts to protect them from high water. After a few hours riding, we reached Mississippi.

Despite only being in Louisiana for a few days, I'd really liked it and would love to come back. New Orleans is a fascinating place and well worth a visit and the local french food is delicious.

Texas

The first thing I noticed about Texas was that there were oil pumps everywhere. The air smelt of oil. This state is massive and sits on a huge oil reserve, they're a rich state because of the oil and a lot of people have jobs in the industry. It's no wonder fuel is so cheap and they all drive big trucks, it keeps their economy rolling.
The first town of note in Texas was called Plains, a suitable name! We went to a supermarket to buy dinner and a lady called Estelle invited us to the Thanksgiving church service and after service meal! Estelle was married to a really nice guy called Evertt and we met their son Michael and his family. They were an interesting group of people, and we chatted to them while eating the excellent thanksgiving food!

Michael and his family have renounced their US citizenship and don't use money. They believe that Western society is bad, that people are becoming far to reliant on imports and other people and can no longer look after themselves. They are trying to become self sufficient on a small farm. They believe that sooner or later, there will be a war that ends society as we know it and when that happens they want to be prepared. So while that doesn't mean they can't use modern technology, they try to not rely on it. It's an interesting idea, and while I definitely think people in the West are becoming too reliant on technology and other people, I'm not sure how the family will benefit by removing themselves from it. Interestingly, although devout Christians, they follow the laws of the Torah, for example; circumcision and not eating pork.

Evertt was a really good guy. He was very knowledgeable on American history and told us about Texas, the cival war and slavery. He's a strong republican and had some very sensible arguments supporting Bush and against Obama and although I didn't agree with them, I could see his points. He also told us about the current drought in Texas, which was ruining farmers crops and had caused animals to be shot because there wasn't enough food to feed them. Him and Estelle were great hosts and we really enjoyed our night there.
Rain! The next morning we experienced the first rain in 3 months in Texas. The family were delighted as was the rest of the state! We weren't and couldn't help being a little bit annoyed by the rain's timing! As we left, Michael gave us a letter to read later on that day.

We cycled through the plains to Brownfield, where we got out of the cold and the rain in a Mexican restaurant. It was really cheap and the fajitas were delicious. Dave, the really friendly waiter gave us unlimited hot drinks and desert on the house. He also told us he'd be on Austin at the weekend. And if we were there, we should meet up.

We read Michael's letter and it was very interesting although contained a lot of animosity towards the US society. Also it told me that he and his friend Dallas had been praying and detected "pain and suffering" in my heart. I was a bit shocked they'd told me this and very confused because as far as I know I'm very happy right now!

With a lot to think about, we cycled to Samesa, where we met a guy called Arthur who phoned his church who offered to put us up in a Motel. It was really kind. I told the pastor we only needed a place to pitch the tents and he said he loved what we were doing and wanted to give us a comfortable night out of the wet and cold! Great guy!

We woke up in the Motel then headed over the road to a burrito cafe where Arthur had told us he'd buy us a couple of burritos for breakfast. Really generous people in Texas so far. We cycled on with nothing exciting to see and arrived at Big Springs, a thoroughly average place full of fast food restaurants. We went to a thoroughly appalling Mexican restaurant with the worst service I have ever seen. They brought the wrong drinks, then the wrong food for Harry, added the bill up wrong and charged Harry extra for food he hadn't ordered!

We cycled through some pleasant farmland that afternoon and saw deer running through fields. We camped on a ranch that night. We woke up wet in the tent the next morning. It was really hunid. After a slow start we cycled 18 miles to Sterling City, so many stupid trucks! We decided to take a route via Austin, it's supposed to be a cool place and we could meet up with Dave there.

Advertising Americans fantastic geographical awareness, a man who I was asking about where to eat told me there was a good place when we got you Sterling City. I pointed out that's where we were, there was a big sign saying so behind us! We had an utterly appalling burger at Dairy Queen then spent the afternoon cycling to San Angelo and playing 20 questions to pass the time. I got a puncture. We went to a supermarket for dinner then we left the town shouting Alan Partridge quotes. Texas was very monotonous by this stage!

Nothing happened all morning the next day. We arrived at Eden around midday on Thanksgiving day. We were invited to a Motel for lunch. A really nice family who own it put in a massive thanksgiving lunch for anyone who wants to turn up. We were welcomed in and ate turkey with about 20 other people. A girl who'd been on American Idol sang and we were educated in the ways of American Football. The mother owned a caravan in the next town, about 30 miles away so we cycled there in the afternoon and stayed there that night.
Finally, the following afternoon, Texas delivered some pretty countryside, hills and woods. We enjoyed the riding for the first time in a few days despite the headwind. We got talking to a fantastic family outside Maccy D's and the forces 20 dollars into our pockets to "buy a good meal". Fantastic people!

That night we found our good meal! In fact it was the best meal I've had on the entire trip. A pit BBQ called Coopers. We enjoyed massive pork chops, BBQ'd jacket potatos and salads. We got talking to a family who'd been hunting, the local people's favourite hobby. We were told how they pay money to a land owner then are allowed to hunt deer. They are taught as kids, how to track, shoot and prepare animals. The father uses a bow and arrow. Really cool thing to do. The state has laws limiting the number allowed to be hunted and they can take the meat home to eat. At the restaurant, another 20 dollars was donated to our food fund and as we left, we were given a massive steak each, "for the road"! It might not be the most exciting state, but the people are so kind.

That night we slept in a tunnel under the road again. Unfortunately at about 11 o clock it started raining, heavily! The tunnel started filling up fast and everything was in danger of getting soaked. We rushed out, put the tents up and moved everything in. The only casualty was a corner of my sleeping bag, which fell into a puddle, but on the whole, not bad! It was great being in the tent with the thunder and lightening outside.
That day we cycled into Austin. Dave contacted us and told us where he was staying, the doubletree hotel. We cycled there and it turned out to be the Hilton! We pushed our dirty bikes through the sparkling reception and amazingly were allowed to take them up to the room. We had a quick wash and found the most respectable of our clothes, half of which were damp after the thunder storm the last night. Then we headed out into Austin, we went to a few bars, then the famous 6th street. Was a good night and good to get off the bikes for a night.

The next day, we had a slow start, watched Star Wars in the hotel reception then did about 20 miles in the afternoon. We camped at an RV park that night.

The less said about the next couple of days, the better. It was incredibly boring cycling around the outskirts of Houston, the 3rd biggest US city. I think we must have seen over 100 Mcdonalds. It was one big shopping centre. There was drive-thru/drive-in everything: restaurants, banks, pharmacies, churches, cinemas, liquor stores, a place where u can buy an alcohilic drink, post offices. I just don't understand where evolution decided that it would be great to be so lazy that getting out of your car becomes such an inconvenience! You can even get married in a drive-thru wedding chapel in Vegas. Unbelievable.

We were so bored that we tried to work out how much packaging Mcdonalds gets through in Houston. We guessed 500 restaurants in the city area, most are 24 hours, they probably average at least 30 people being served a meal every hour so that's 360,000 meals per day in Houston. If an average meal packaging weighs around 50 grams, that's 18 tons of rubbish per day and 6570 per year!

The gas-guzzling trucks were more present than ever and the worst thing I saw was a church flashing the following message in LED light on a sign outside: Christ has risen, Christ is the Son of God, therefore Islam is false. There was a mosque down the road, I wonder what they think of that! I never experienced any animosity towards Christianity in Asia, but here in supposedly good and great America they are flashing that message past millions of commuters every day.

I was becoming disillusioned with American society but it's important to remember the great bits of the country I've been through too. The final night in Texas restored my faith in Texas! We were invited into a young guys house, who was BBQing a deer him and his mates had shot with a bow earlier that day. It tasted amazing, we talked to the hunting group about stalking deer and whether they preferred shooting with a bow or a rifle! There were a lot of weapons around, but I have no problem with people owning guns for hunting, it's only when they own them for 'self defense' that I don't think it's right.

One more days ride brought us into the swamps near the Gulf of Mexico and finally the Louisiana State border. We cheered as we escaped Texas! Not the most exciting bit of the ride, but important to have experienced. The main positive to take from Texas is the Texans, who although often unusual are almost all very kind and friendly people.